Safely Modding Your For Dummies. This document is not intended to be an all-encompassing how-to for running 11's. Within this guide, I will discuss how to safely, and rather inexpensively, modify your supercharged to pick up a few ponies as well as dispel some myths about the platform.
Much of Nick's guide is still relevant today and it's certainly worth the read when you have the time, OR if you want to go faster than the modifications in this guide allow for. Great choice! Whether you're looking to learn more about engines and performance or just want to make your way to the grocery store faster, the GM platform offers an easy and cost-effective starting point. When it debuted inthe Series II offered class-leading supercharged performance.
Fortunately or unfortunately, the rest of the world kept moving, and in the days of horsepower minivans, ponies doesn't seem as impressive anymore, especially considering we have a supercharger bolted on. Good thing we're only a few clicks away from a lot of extra power being delivered right to our door.
This, of course, means that GM's bean counters were in full effect in regards to the design of this transmission, and there were cost cutting measures taken. The internals of the 4T65E bolted to your are largely no different than the ones in a base Buick Century. Towards that end, it's best to just accept now that the more you modify your car, the greater your risk of breaking your transmission are.
Fortunately, if you're serious about going fast, high performance transmission builds can be purchased from vendors like Triple Edge Performance. I would recommend that one of your first modifications be a transmission cooler. I would also recommend the medium shift kit as outlined in this guideor the TransGo shift kit. You need to fix everything wrong with your car before you modify it.
Let's be honest, the newest supercharged car is 10 years old now, the oldest is over You need to, at the very least, perform a basic tune-up and catch up on years of deferred maintenance. Nick actually outlined this very well in his original guide, so I will copy it mostly verbatim here. Start here:.Forums New posts Search forums. What's new New posts New profile posts Latest activity. Members Current visitors New profile posts Search profile posts.
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The fix : Remove the snout on the supercharger and replace bearings, coupler, snout seal, gasket, and supercharger oil. None of us have ever done something like this before, all we have to go on is a crappy how to from the interent.
Sounds easy enough, right? This started smoothly enough. We removed the battery, belt tensioners, and alternator. Last edited: Oct 12, I hate it when Reality and the How-To take divergent paths.
It's even worse when everyone you talk to is like "yeah the bolt came right out no problem" and your sitting there 2 hours in ready to kill someone. You just can't catch a break, can you? No Boss Neener, neener, I banned your title! God that sounds like my life whilst owning my old GTI. Every month, one solid weekend would be spent repairing something minor, but crucial. But to be fair, that car had ,mi on it. My fathers old P.
Bonneville SSEi had the same engine as yours and assumably the same charger.Rebuilding your Eaton snout. These instructions were written specifically for rebuilding an Eaton M90 snout commonly found on ''03 GM Series engines, however, they can be used for other applications.
You don't need a special puller for the pulley, but the rest of the procedure is the same. The first step in getting your snout off is to remove your belt and get the fuse box out of the way.
You also may need to get your alternator out of the way also. You will now have to pull your supercharger pulley off using a special pulley puller, such as ones sold by The Pulley Boys depicted in the picture below. This is necessary in order to disassemble the snout later. Now you want to take the fill plug out and remove as much of the fluid as possible from the snout. A turkey baster with a piece of tubing or a syringe works well.
Remove the 10 bolts that hold the snout on. Once they are out, you can gently tap the snout with a rubber mallet or soft hammer until it pops off.
Be careful to not pull your rotors out with the snout. You'll want to leave them in and seperate the snout from them. Now you can start disassembling the snout by first removing the retaining clip on the front end of the snout that holds the seal in. Using your rubber mallet or soft hammer, tap out the shaft from the front end of the snout.
The shaft should come out fairly easily and will have one bearing still on it. There's a spring in there that will come out with the shaft also. Now you can remove the bearing and seal from the snout housing end. From the back end of the snout, you can use a socket large enough to fit over the inner bearing race and an extension to lightly tap on the bearing to knock it out the front side of the snout. The next step is to remove the coupler end from the shaft in order to get the back end bearing off the shaft.
This will require a press or a puller to remove. As you can see below, the end of the shaft that this coupler is pressed onto is splined. It's a good idea to just check the shaft for any significant scoring before reassembly. Usually I use a Scotchbrite pad to clean up the bearing surfaces before installing the new ones. Now you will need to press the new bearing and the coupler back onto the shaft. The splines are a fine pitch, so make sure it's lined up properly so you don't ruin the splines when pressing it back on.
It's a good idea to use a very light oil to aid in pressing the coupler back onto the shaft. After your shaft is back together, install the new bearing in the housing.
Make sure the bearing is seated fully into the housing. Then slide the shaft into the snout and tap it back in, taking care to make sure the bearing is fully seated. Finally, tap the new seal into place and install the retaining clip and you're done. Reinstall the snout onto the supercharger reversing the steps you took above to remove it.
Before doing so, it's also a good time to replace your coupler as the holes tend to get egg shaped making the coupler loose and noisy.
You can find couplers here. When reinstalling the snout, I recommend using Permatex gasket maker or GM sealant and you'll need 2 bottles of GM supercharger oil to refill the snout. Rebuild kits with everything needed to do the job are available here. If you have any other questions feel free to send an email.
L36 Supercharger Kit
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Turn off email alerts. Skip to main content. Refine your search for buick supercharger. Refine more Format Format. Items in search results Vehicle finder tool Find parts for your automobile Select a vehicle:. Search refinements Categories. Automotive Turbos, Nitrous, Superchargers Gaskets 3. Computer, Chip, Cruise Control 2. Accessories 1.
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Not Specified Brand see all Brand. Buick 2. Enginetech 4. General Motors 3. Quality 2. Warranty see all Warranty. No Warranty 1. Unspecified Length Placement on Vehicle see all Placement on Vehicle. Front 2. Condition see all Condition. New I have a Monte Carlo SS. I believe the factory sold later models of this car with a supercharger.
This would be my first attempt at putting on a supercharger. I'd prefer a complete donor car so I can see how everything comes off, making it easier to install the parts on my SS. I looked on eBay and there were different pieces here and there, but I would like to get all the parts in one try.
Why you shouldn't rebuild your supercharger
Do I need to get different pulleys, a bigger radiator, or change the computer? Any advice would be welcome. The Buick-designed, 3. These engines had a 9. It is theoretically possible to install the L67's M90 SC and related parts on an L36, but the swap is extremely expensive and time-consuming.
The only major common parts shared by the L36 and L67 are the block and crank. Note those last two items bold type. They're what makes the changeover such a big deal. The supercharged car's L67 heads are needed because on the NA L36, the fuel injectors are located in the intake manifold, but due to supercharger clearance issues on the stock SC L67, the injectors are relocated to the cylinder heads casting No.
Other than injector provisions, Series II V6 heads are pretty much identical. Some NA L36 engines even used No.
Pit Stop: Supercharging a Normally-Aspirated 3800 Series II V6 Engine
Alternative L36 castings include Nos. The heads have no boss provisions; No. In any event, drilling and relieving the bosses so the injectors can seat and seal properly requires tooling and a skill set beyond that of the average home mechanic.
Then there's the computer engine control unit, or ECU. Custom programming is mandatory. If you install the L67 ECU in place of the existing L36 unit, the car won't start because of built-in vehicle antitheft system VATS provisions, as well as differences in the key-to-starter ignition circuit. An L67 ECU also requires custom fuel- and spark-table tuning to compensate for the L36's higher compression ratio and different axle ratio.
On the other hand, the L36 ECU's spark and fuel tables aren't compatible with a supercharger; the car probably won't start or run, either. There may also be year-to-year ECU differences. These issues aren't insurmountable, but again, not a simple "let's just swap over some parts. Other hurdles: A special puller is needed to remove the balancer, plus a very powerful impact gun to remove the crank bolt, which may not be practical in a wrecking yard.
And if you want to go to a smaller blower-drive pulley for more boostthe factory SC has a press-on pulley that also requires a special, dedicated puller available for sale or rent from ZZPerformance.
All this to gain 35 hp and 50 lb-ft at the flywheel? There is in my opinion a better way: an aftermarket supercharger or turbocharger conversion kit that's designed to interface as painlessly as possible with the existing L36 NA engine. Installation time should easily be about half what it would take to try and swap over an L67 stock blower setup including heads say, 6 instead of 12 hours. Its L36 supercharger conversion kit uses the existing heads, substituting a modified supercharger intake manifold that's redesigned to incorporate the EFI nozzles in the casting.
A rebuilt Eaton M90 SC comes with a bolt-on pulley in place of the stocker's press-on pulley, thereby permitting easy installation of smaller pulleys for more boost, if desired. The kits include larger injectors and a custom-calibrated ECU or downloadable files to reprogram the existing ECU with complimentary fuel and spark tables.
The program also raises and firms up full-throttle auto trans shift points for the 4T65E auto transaxle but keeps part-throttle shifts soft for daily cruising. Because of its higher compression ratio and longer rods, ZZPerformance claims the L36 will make 5 percent more power and torque than an L67 with the same amount of boost.
Remember, these cars are old, so "good shape" here is a relative term, but assuming an OK stock trans, figure on it safely handling up to whp.
The weak point on the L36 NA car's 4L65E is its slightly weaker differential that can fail during a "one-wheel peel going around a corner if the internal clutch gets hot," as ZZPerformance's "Turbo" Tim Beek puts it. The stock fuel pump is good for about whp—if it's fresh the pumps deteriorate over time.The short answer is no. The only things the non supercharged and supercharged 's have in common are the block and crank. Everything else is different. Still a few determined individuals have done it.
You'll also need a torque wrench, balancer puller, and very powerful air gun to remove the crank bolt. Our ZZP L36 Supercharger kit allows you to bolt a GM Gen 3 M90 supercharger to your Series 2 non-supercharged engine with out the need for all the traditional components and without the extensive labor or special tools.
The SS kit also allows you to run boost more efficiently on the high compression engine because of the blower port work matched with a machined intake manifold. You'll have room for easy upgrades with the SS kit as well because the Supercharger comes with a modular pulley system.
The blowers are used cores with any worn parts replaced, and guaranteed for 1 year. Because of the large number of differences from kit to kit which vary by car model as well as year we DO NOT accept phone orders and WILL NOT be giving sales support over the phone, please email all questions to customerservice zzperformance.
You will also need our 1. The file will assume that you are running a L36 throttle body and 1 bar MAP sensor. Email Tim ZZPerformance. How long does this kit take to install? Complete install takes hours if doing it for your first time. You will need metric and American socket sets. What cars will this work on? Gen 5 kits will be available shortly for use with drive by wir throttle bodies and newer cars. Won't I have KR?
Will my engine blow up? The kit comes shipped with a very large pulley, cold spark plugs, reprogrammed PCM and a ported blower. It will make just under 5 pounds of boost. As long as you run premium gas your car will be ok. What mods can I use with this kit? Any mods that you would normally use for a Series 2except the HV insert.
What throttle bodies can I run? What cam should I or can I run? With L67 33 injectors and our VS cam we recommend our 3. What do I have to do to run more boost? You'll need larger injectors and PCM tuning and additional supporting mods. To run smaller than a 4. Will my car run any different? It will idle the same and get the same fuel economy it did before installation of the kit. What will the gains be?
If your GT is modified the gains will be larger. Traction and whether you run race gas or Torco will greatly affect times.Advanced Search Search Tips. Upgrade your Non-Supercharged to a Supercharged without having to do an engine swap with this "Top Swap" kit. This kit includes everything to swap over the topend from the L67 along with the other necessary parts including gaskets to basically turn your L36 into an L67 engine. Keep in mind you will be retaining the standard 9. This means you won't want to go as radical with pulley choice, but you will be able to make more power with less boost.
Here is the list of what exactly is included in this kit so you can see that this is in fact the cheapest Top Swap available out there.
If you find a cheaper one out there, we will match it - parts for parts and price for price. Kit Includes:. We promise to never spam you, and just use your email address to identify you as a valid customer. This product hasn't received any reviews yet. Be the first to review this product! All prices are in USD. Copyright Milzy Motorsports. Sitemap Ecommerce Solution by BigCommerce.
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Yes No thanks. Product Description Upgrade your Non-Supercharged to a Supercharged without having to do an engine swap with this "Top Swap" kit. Find Similar Products by Category Specials.
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